In March it had a fair number of travellers without being overcrowded, but I believe peak season late Dec and Jan saw lots of visitors - Lipe is kinda the flavor of the times.

I stayed at VIEWPOINT BUNGALOWS which read up real nice in the travel guides and on travefish.
I wasn’t disappointed. This is an old style beach-hut type place, with rustic bungalows built up the steep hillside overlooking twin compact bays just south of a small headland at the end of the big eastern beach, Andaman.
Most of these bungalows have very nice views from their verandas. Mine was the second highest, cut into the rainforest up a pretty awesome set of stairs, and was panoramic - a small islet just offshore, Taratao in the far distance, mountainous Ko Adang close to the north with the sweep of Andaman Bay between.

These are built on the steep hillside behind the twin bays, all with pretty nice views. They are traditional woven-bamboo wall, thatch-roof style places of various sizes from one-bed to pretty spacious. March prices seemed to be from 300 to 400.
I had one of the bigger ones, way up a set of killer steps, the 2nd highest bungalow. Note most of the bungalows are in the first 2 rows and the climb to these is not difficult.
Rustic is the best way to describe my bungalow - it was just like the good old days. It was solid and clean, but I swear it had a very small (say 2 degree) sideways tilt, although the huge bed (king size - double++ - with thick seemingly brand-new comfy mattress, nice pillows, ornate top-cover and sheets and good mozzie net) was dead level.
Very rustic was the lighting - the switch to the main room light did not work - it was turned off by unscrewing the bulb!!!! Far out - I left the bulb unscrewed, the bathroom and balcony lights gave plenty of illumination - but despite the dodgy electrics, the size, the comfy bed and the amazing view from the big wrap-around veranda made the bungalow well and truly worth the 400b.
Now in contrast, the lighting all the way up the steps to my place, which I thought would be a death trap at night, was very good.
The bungalow came with one towel and hand towel although for two people I imagine it is just a matter of asking. No soap, no toilet paper, no hammock on the deck - 2 plastic chairs and some very ornate artistic woodwork if that sort of thing cites your ex. The veranda opened into the bungalow by full width folding doors which created a kink of pavilion effect. There were extensive clotheslines where it wrapped around the side of the bungalow. Inside were lots of hooks, some wall shelves and lots of storage on the horizontal wall framework.
The attached bathroom had western toilet, awsome water pressure and a good mirror.

A caveat here - these higher bungalows are cut into the rainforest, so at times during the night there are crashes and thrashes outside in the bush, plus a few meece scuttling across the rafters. Rustic. As I said, just like the good old days
The no-frills restaurant was down at beach level and consisted of 4 plastic tables + chairs. Food was standard bungalow (good), prices perhaps slightly higher than the average budget bungalow (that is - still very reasonable) and the service was fast if a bit dour - it was hard to get a smile out of the girls. The youngish guy with crook eyes who owns the joint is very friendly and obliging.

In high season you can get ferries and speedboats from a number of operators out of PAK BARA about midway between Trang and Satun, a fast ferry from the Thammalang pier about 10km south of SATUN (which is also where the ferries from Malaysia’s Langkawi island come in), a speedboat from KO LANTA which will also pick up at Kos Muk, Ngai and Bulon Lae and a speedboat directly from LANGKAWI. The latter apparently does immigration formalities at one of the Lipe bungalows.
For the budget conscious costs increase significantly in order of Pak Bara, Satun, Langkawi and Lanta.

Note this message on kolipethailand.com’s FERRY TIMETABLE.
Important!
The season is ending soon and the last ferries are sceduled to run on May 15th 2007. From May untill November Koh Lipe can be reached from Langkawi (Malaysia) in the weekends. Daily ferry service will start again in November 2007.

Wow, it surprises me that there are not a few weekly ferries from the Thai mainland in low season - the island has a sizable local population. Looks like long tails rule. Long way to go in a long tail if the weather turns.
And there is some accommodation in low season. Poh's, as you can read on the last link in this report, stays open:
GOOD NEWS......Pooh's bungalows and restaurant is open all year round. Due to limited availibility TELEPHONE POOH DIRECTLY mobile +66(0)89 4668826 to make a reservation or for any further enquiry's. Telephone is preferable to email.

UPDATE - sept 07 - kolipethailand.com's ferry schedule is now showing one wet season ferry per week from Pak Barra - to Lipe Fridays at 1100 and back Sundays at0930. They also show a cargo boat they suggest you could get a ride on - out Wed 1100, back Fr 1000.
The site also mentions the Lanta speedboat mentioned above and below will run each way EVERY DAY from 1 Nov 07

UPDATE OF UPDATE - late Oct 07 - kolipe.com's site is now showing one daily ferry from Pakbara (commenced Oct12) operated by Bundhaya:

SPB Speed Boat Club (Start: November 1st) 12.30 13.45 650 BHT
Bundhaya Speed Boat (Start: October 12th) 13.00 14.15 750 BHT
Tigerline Travel (Start: November 1st) 12.00 13.30

FROM LANGKAWI IN MALAYSIA
For several seasons there has been a fast boat from Langkawi to Lipe every second day.
Poster H5N1 sent this updated information forwarded to him by the boat operators:
"Langkawi–Koh Lipe-Langkawi Shuttle Service
Daily shuttle service for 2007/8 season will commence on 1 November 2007. Departing from Telaga Harbour Marina, Pantai Kok, Langkawi at 0930hrs and returning from Koh Lipe at 1730hrs.
Journey will take approximately 1hr 15mins depending on weather condition.
One Way Ticket : RM118/Adult & RM98/Child (Single Trip)
Return Ticket : RM228/Adult & RM188/Child (Day & Round Trip)
Onward Journey : Tarutoa, Koh Bulone, Koh Muk, Koh Ngai, Lanta
Krabi and Phi Phi onwards available
Check-in Time at 0830hrs – 1 hour before expected departure
All passengers are required to have valid travel documents, i.e International Passport. Malaysian Immigration clearance are all done here at Telaga Harbour and the Thai's will do theirs on Lipe. All clearance arrangement will be handled by our agent."
Hey, this is not only a neat way to access Lipe from Malaysia, but gives Thailand visitors a chance of sampling Malaysia. Langkawi is a big, spectacular tourist island with accommodation in all price ranges. And it is DUTY FREE!
Note you can transfer from Langkawi to Penang on a fast ferry.

I came down to Lipe from Bulon Lae in the speedboat because the old slow ferry no longer runs - cost was 500. Took a bit over an hour, and the ride can be a bit rough, particularly if you sit up the front.
I went back on the express ferry to Pak Bara which is actually the slow ferry. Real nice views of the Tarataos and other interim islands from the open but shaded top deck seats. It is cheaper at 300b than the fast ferries, if you buy your ticket on the island, and a good option over these faster ferries which leave earlier, if you are intending to catch one of the travelers’ minivans from Pak Bara north to Trang, Lanta, Krabi. These vans wait for the slow ferry to come in, and so if you take the faster ones you will be sitting around in Pak Bara for 2-3 hours - Pak Bara is a real hole. Plenty of restaurants, internet etc but hot, dusty, full of travel touts etc. Note the latter will come down in price for minivan and ferry tickets if you are a good bargainer.
If you are going to Hat Yai, minibuses leave hourly.
You can also get to Trang by catching a songthaew or motorcycle-taxi the 10km or so to La Ngu, where the Satun-Trang public buses come thru roughly hourly. Note these terminate in southern Trang about 2km from the center and 4km from the main bus station for buses further north.